We’ve gotten all moved in to our new location in downtown Loveland. The new address is 333 N. Cleveland Avenue. Our Grand Opening will be held on Sept 14, 2012, from 6pm-9pm. In addition to an open house with models showing some cute 40’s style dresses, we will have a live Jazz duo and some refreshments. Mark your calendar. Hope to see you there!
Check us out for the final night of NoCo Fashion Week! The theme is “Animal InstinX”. Rip Club will be showing some of our current wild leather and fabric creations. Get tickets at the door for $15 mentioning “Rip It”. Here’s the Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/214234218683031/ and here’s the article they did on us: http://www.reporterherald.com/news/loveland-local-news/ci_20403481/loveland-woman-turns-old-clothes-into-hip-fashion
And here is the NoCo Fashion Week website: http://nocofashionweek.weebly.com/ We will be posting a bunch of pictures from this event soon.
“I recently inherited a leather jacket from my father this holiday season. The lining was torn up on the inside, and most of the pockets had gaping holes in them. I took the jacket to Rip Club sewing for repair, and I could not be happier. They not only replaced the entire lining and pockets for me, but also reinforced the pockets for me so they would be less likely to blow out in the future. Even more amazing is that based on the tear patterns on the inside of the jacket they were able to conclude that the jacket was too tight in the chest (something that I had just resigned to deal with since leather tailoring can be difficult) and proactively fixed the tailoring. My leather jacket now fits great and looks even better. If you want an experienced tailor knowledgeable in their craft, you can’t go wrong with Rip Club Sewing!”
Thanks again for your work! The jacket looks great.
HOW TO THREAD A LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE
No matter if your sewing machine is an antique or a brand new model, if it is a lockstitch machine the basic mechanism is the same. All home zig zag machines are lockstitch. Lockstitch have bobbins.
A lockstitch sewing machine has a spool on top that ends up being threaded through a needle, and a bobbin that gets threaded into a bobbin case. All bobbin cases may not be the same, but they all use a metal plate (called a spring) where the thread goes under to maintain a tension. They all also have a little screw where you can change the tension if you are using a non-standard thread.
The lockstitch machine has even top and bottom threads on either side of your seam. If your stitches aren’t even then you need to adjust the tension. The top and bottom threads get twisted around each other when the needle goes down into the throat plate hole and the race spins around where a hook grabs the thread above the needle hole and twists the bobbin thread over then back under the needle thread. The needle thread is on top and the bobbin thread is on the bottom.
Start by making sure the presser foot is in the raised position. Remember that the foot must be down in order to sew or the tensions and feed dogs (the “teeth”) won’t engage and you’ll get a loopy, loose mess instead of a seam. Then turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is in the highest position. The take up lever will also be in the highest position. The take up lever moved up and down, and may be hidden inside a slot.
Put a spool of standard sewing thread on the the spool holder (or, pin), making sure the thread isn’t catching on a nick or cut in the spool itself.
Bring the thread end through the first thread guide which is on the top of the machine and will line up to the right of the tension assembly. There may be a little tension disk to put it through first (counterclockwise), or a wire hanger. If it doesn’t line up logically it might be a bobbin winding tension, so look at it carefully. There can be up to four thread guides before you get to the needle tension (Tension disks) assembly.
Thread around the first tension disk or curved slot where the tension assembly might be hiding. This is threaded from top right, around the bottom, and back to the top on the left side. You will feel the drag a bit, but this will increase when you engage, or drop, the presser foot. The needle thread tension disks may have a number face on it so it’s easier to gauge your tensions. Turning the dial to the right will make it tighter, left will be looser. Make sure it comes up and over any hanger pin, or the little wire that sticks out of the side of the needle tension assembly.
Next thread upwards through the hole in the take up lever. To find it turn the handwheel. The handwheel is on the far right side of machine and turns toward you, counter clockwise. The take up lever is the long pin in the long slot that goes up and down when you turn the handwheel or run the machine.
Thread down through front thread guide.
Thread through needle top thread guide.
Turn the thumb screw to loosen and take out your needle to inspect and replace if necessary. Remember a size 14/90 sharp is general purpose. A ballpoint needle can be used for knits. Larger holed needles are used for heavier topstitching threads. A double needle can be used for knit hemming and for topstitching a pin tucked look. Skinnier needles, like 11/70 should be used for very light fabric and a larger 16/100 should be used for denim and canvas. Needle tensions should be tested on a scrap of your fabric before you begin sewing up your project. Put your needle back in, keeping the slot in the front. Thread the needle from front to back. If it is an industrial machine or an antique you may have the needle positioned with the front of it facing the left. Really old Singers may have the needle facing the right. If you’re not sure check the race and bobbin case and see how the hook moves. The hook must come up the front of the needle to hook the thread. Trial and error may be necessary.
Place the bobbin in the bobbin case, threading into the little slot and hearing it click under the plate. It may have an obvious slot in top loaded bobbins. Bobbin cases that you remove to load will also have a little tooth or fangs that the thread needs to come under. Place the bobbin case back in, using the holder and making sure the opening is up. It will click into place if it’s in there properly. Pull about 4 inches of thread out.
Holding the needle thread, turn the handwheel towards you until the needle goes all the way down and back up, bringing the bobbin thread up. Pull loop and needle thread out about 8 inches. Now put your fabric in with one thread on top and one on bottom. Drop the foot and let ‘er RIP!
When you are looking over either new or used sewing machines for purchase, keep these tips in mind. Just because a machine is all metal on the outside doesn’t mean the gears are made of metal. Most all home lockstitch machines made today are plastic gear driven. It makes them lightweight and inexpensive. Take the top off of the machine if it’s an old one and check with your own eyes. Always make sure the race and hook are intact, plus the throat plate and the bobbin case, and that they are all relatively nick free. Breaking a lot of needles because of misuse can really damage even a brand new machine, so don’t expect “only used once” machines to be in new condition. If you are looking at an industrial machine, keep in mind they need to be run for at least ten (10) minutes straight per day. Don’t get an industrial machine unless you plan on running it fast and often. For slow sewers, stick with home machines. A serger isn’t necessarily an industrial machine, there are plenty of desktop, home use, overlock (serger) machines. I recommend getting a cheap one to start with, otherwise they just get more complicated with more features that you will be less likely to use. They are great for knits, costumes and lingerie. If you want to test out machines, come join us as Rip Club. We are NOT a sewing machine dealer so we aren’t biased and will give you our honest opinion on what might be best for you.
Sorry to all of our customers for the telephone and wifi being down at the shop. Our providers went bankrupt and shut it off before it could be picked up by another provider. We will have it on as soon as possible. Please still come by the shop we are still in business!
Jeans are a staple clothing item for most Americans. Now I can say that from my own observation and don’t feel the need to quote any statistic, as it’s quite obvious to us. Favorite jeans designs and cuts will change and your favorite pair could be no longer produced. When you’ve worn your jeans and “broken them in” they take on a specific shape that has been sculpted and molded to your body. This custom jeans molding can take months or years, depending on how hard you wear your jeans. The reason for the love of our jeans is not only the comfort of a well worn pair, but the custom fit we obtain over time. Both of these reasons are a great motivation for patching your jeans when they are wearing out. We at Rip Club can teach you how to patch up your jeans. You can either make the patch blend in and not noticeable, or get creative with decorative patching. Rip Club can do it for you or we can walk you through it at the club. We have all the materials you will need to patch up your jeans and save your favorites!