How to Sew a Crotch Gusset in Jeans With Excellent Results
Ah, so this is why apprenticeship, with all of it’s toil and torture, is necessary. But I have some hope for you. I taught sewing and tailoring tricks, that took me years to learn and master, when I had the Rip Club sewing club. (Also known as Rip Club Sewing Lounge and Tailor.)
So after you’ve tried a diamond gusset, and it looked like old lodge skins, you may have thrown up your hands and given up. Maybe you lived with it or chucked the jeans in the trash can. Maybe you are more experienced, and tried cutting a separate gusset for each inside leg. But, after you’ve pinned it in, painstakingly checking it for fit, sewing it in, ripping it out several times, you still couldn’t get good looking results.
Maybe your grandmother just said “let me just do this one for you”, when she was passing down her masterful seamstress art to you. Maybe you went to design school, or are a professional seamstress in a factory, or a home seamstress who had success with diamond gussets in kids clothing. Or maybe the diamond gusset worked great in those wool dress pants, but jeans “just can’t be done right”! YES THEY CAN! Lookie here….
Get about a half yard of denim, or use recycled jeans, but cut the gusset(s) on the BIAS. The other secret was mentioned above. Cut the gussets in two pieces. This way it won’t come out “too long”. You can always sew the crotch curve after the leg “v’s”. Make sure you sew to the original stitch line and stop that needle “on the money”. Walk it if necessary. It must be exact or there can be puckering from the point of the triangle.
I sure hope you master this skill of how to sew a crotch gusset in jeans. The ill fitting, ready made, fast fashion is fixable. Anything is possible, but not many have the skill anymore. Let me know you like by following my blog and subscribing to my you tube, or like me on facebook. Thank you and, like Ned the Beatnik Alien (our mascot) says, “Come on down to Rip Club and Fix Your Pants!”